beef · Primal

Beef Flank

The one steak that shows you, from across the room, which way to cut it.

Flank is the abdominal wall — a broad, flat sheet of muscle behind the ribs that holds the animal's gut in place. It works steadily rather than hard, which leaves it lean, and its fibers run long and parallel in a single direction you can see with the naked eye. There are two on an animal, and how you slice one matters more than how you cook it.

On the animal

CHUCK RIB LOIN ROUND BRISKET PLATE FLANK SHANK SHANK

Every other region is a link to that primal. The full butcher chart puts beef, pork and lamb side by side.

This is a single muscle, and it is unusual in being sold more or less whole. What you buy is close to what the animal had: a flat sheet roughly the size of a place mat, an inch or so at its thickest, with the grain running in unbroken parallel lines from one end to the other. Nothing else in the case shows you its own structure that plainly.

Slicing is the technique. Cooking is almost incidental.

The fibers here run the length of the piece without interruption. Cut along them and a single bite can contain fibers several inches long, which is exactly what "tough" feels like in the mouth. Cut across them, thin, and the same meat is tender. That is not a refinement or a chef's preference — it is the difference between a good result and a bad one from identical meat cooked identically.

Two habits help. Slice on a bias, roughly forty-five degrees to the board, which widens each piece without lengthening the fibers in it. And rest it properly before cutting: a hot piece of lean meat gives up far more liquid to the board than a rested one, and there is very little fat here to make up the loss.

What a marinade actually does

Not much tenderizing. Acids and enzymes work on the surface and stall a few millimeters in, so an overnight soak produces a thin band of mushy exterior and an interior in exactly the condition it started. Marinades earn their keep on flavor and on browning — sugars and aromatics on the surface, salt working its way deeper over several hours. Any recipe promising that a marinade will tenderize this cut all the way through is wrong.

Lean means fast

There is very little fat inside the muscle, so nothing keeps it tasting moist once it passes medium-rare. Hot and brief, then off the heat. A wide, thin piece over a hot fire is done considerably sooner than its size suggests, and the gap between right and overdone is a minute or two.

On price

It used to be an afterthought and it is not any more — carne asada, fajitas and stir-fries turned it into something people ask for by name. It is still fair for the flavor it delivers, and there is no waste on it at all: no bone, no seams, nothing to trim off and throw away.

How it eats

Firm and genuinely beefy rather than delicate — nearer the coarse, mineral end of the range than anything off the loin. Sliced correctly it eats tender. Sliced the wrong way it eats like a belt. Identical piece of meat, cooked identically.

Typical methods

grill

Cuts

Cuts from this primal

Questions

Common questions

Which way does the grain run?

Look at the surface and you will see parallel lines running the long way down the piece. Your knife should cross them at ninety degrees. If you cannot tell, tear a corner with your fingers — it will come apart along the fibers and show you their direction.

Flank or skirt?

Different muscles. Skirt is diaphragm, from under the ribs; this is abdominal wall, further back. Skirt is fattier, more strongly flavored and cooks even faster. This is leaner, thicker and easier to handle on a grill. Either works for the same dishes, and the slicing rule applies equally to both.

Can I cook it past medium?

You can, but there is nothing here to hide it. With almost no fat between the fibers, the distance between medium-rare and medium-well is the distance between juicy and dry, and on a hot grill that is about two minutes.

More to explore

Other beef primals